Best Of Cosmetology

Hair loss is normal. Everyday the human body sheds hair as part of the natural hair growth process. 80% of your hair at any given time is in its growth cycle while the other 20% is in its resting cycle. In addition, during this time, it is normal to see 100 or so hairs lost each and every day. It only becomes a problem when the hair loss is higher and the hair that is replacing it is coming in either at a slower rate or not at all. This is when you will start to see the hair thinning or receding hairlines.
There are several reasons why someone would experience excessive hair loss:
1. Heredity - Male pattern baldness affects about 25% of males by the time they reach the age of 30. The primary cause is genetic, although there is another culprit also and that is testosterone. This is converted by the body into DHT (dihydrotestosterone), this will stop or slow down the growth of hair. Another side effect of this is that the hair may be thinner or shorter.
2. Alopecia Areata - This can be seen in both males and females. It is defined by a rapid loss of hair in patches. The cause of which is usually due to an autoimmune disorder. In alopecia totalis all of the hair on the scalp is lost, and in some cases alopecia universalis may occur where all the hair on the body is lost.
3. You may find that after an illness, large clumps of hair may fall; this is only a temporary condition.
4. Certain skin diseases can affect the health of the scalp. Some of these include seborrheic dermatitis or dandruff, scalp fungus, psoriasis.

Some other cause may include age, radiation therapy, chemotherapy, childbirth and menopause.

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It is normal to lose between 50-100 hairs a day, this is part of the hair renewal process. However most people suffer from excessive hair loss at one time in their life. There are many reasons for this including medication, radiation, chemotherapy, exposure to chemicals, hormonal and nutritional factors, thyroid disease, generalized or local skin disease, and stress.
Many of these causes are temporary and a few are permanent. These are some of the more common reason for hair loss.
HORMONAL BEHAVIOUR
Since hormones both stimulate hair growth and cause hair loss, hormonal changes by far have the biggest impact on hair loss. These can affect both men and women in the following ways:
This is the most common cause of thinning and affects both men and women. Men generally have hair loss concentrated in a specific pattern from the front through to the crown. Women tend to have thinning throughout their head without being in any specific pattern. This type of hair loss is caused by the androgen DHT, or Dihydrotestosterone. Since everyone has DHT that is produced by their bodies and only some people suffer from hair loss there has to be another factor involved. This other factor is having follicles that have a greater number of Androgen receptors for the DHT to attach to. This is the component that is inherited through the genes. To date the most effective preventative treatments are anti androgens, drugs that prevent the creation of DHT. In the future gene therapy will one day be able to alter the genes to prevent the follicles from being affected by DHT.
Childbirth
After pregnancy many women experience a loss of hair, this is caused many hair simultaneously entering the resting (telogen) phase. Within two to three months after giving birth, some women will notice large amounts of hair coming out in their brushes and combs. This can last one to six months, but resolves completely in most cases. This condition is caused by the hormonal changes that take place after a woman's body recovers from her pregnancy.
Birth control pills
Women who have a genetic predisposition to suffer from Androgenic Alopecia can have it occur at a much younger age by taking birth control pills. The hormonal changes that occur trigger the onset of the Androgenic Alopecia. If a woman has a history of female pattern loss in her family she should advise her doctor before going on the pill. After the discontinuation of the pill the woman may notice that her hair begins shedding two or three months later. This may continue for six months when it usually stops. In some cases the process cannot be reversed and the woman may not regrow some of the hair that was lost.
DISEASE OR ILLNESS INFLUENCES
Since the follicle is a very sensitive it does respond to imbalances in the body. Most hair loss causes by disease or illness is temporary and resolves itself after the body has returned to a healthy condition.
High fever, severe infection, severe flu
Sometimes one to three months after a high fever, severe infection or flu, a person may experience hair loss, this is usually temporary and corrects itself.
Thyroid disease
Both an overactive thyroid and an underactive thyroid can cause hair loss. Thyroid disease can be diagnosed by your physician with laboratory tests. Hair loss associated with thyroid disease can be reversed with proper treatment.
Deficient diet
Some people who go on low protein diets, or have severely abnormal eating habits, may develop protein malnutrition. To help save protein the body shifts growing hair into the resting phase. If this happens massive amounts of hair shedding can occur two to three months later. A sign of this is if the hair can be pulled out by the roots fairly easily. This condition can be reversed and prevented by eating the proper amount of protein. Its very important when dieting to maintain an adequate protein intake.
Medications
Some prescription drugs may cause temporary hair shedding in a small percentage of people. Examples of such drugs include some of the medicines used for the following: gout, arthritis, depression, heart problems, high blood pressure, or blood thinner. High doses of vitamin A may also cause hair shedding.
Cancer treatments
Chemotherapy and radiation treatment will cause hair loss because it stops hair cells from dividing. Hairs become thin and break off as they exit the scalp. This occurs one to three weeks after the treatment. Patients can lose up to 90 percent of their scalp hair. The hair will regrow after treatment ends and patients may want to get wigs before treatment. There are some drugs in development to help prevent this hair loss from occurring.
Low serum iron
Iron deficiency occasionally produces hair loss. Some people don't have enough iron in their diets or may not fully absorb iron in their diets. Women who have heavy menstrual periods may develop iron deficiency. Low iron can be detected by laboratory tests and can be corrected by taking iron pills.
Major surgery/chronic illness
Anyone who has a major operation - a tremendous shock to the system - may notice increased hair shedding within one to three months afterwards. The condition reverses itself within a few months but people who have a severe chronic illness may shed hair indefinitely. A relatively unknown fact is that hair transplantation surgery can actually cause additional hair loss or "shock fallout". Hairs lost from shock fallout usually don't regrow.
Alopecia Areata
This type of hair loss is believed to be caused by the immune system reacting to hair follicles as if they were antibodies and shutting them down. The hair loss is usually limited to a coin sized area and all the hair in the area is lost leaving a totally smooth round patch. In a more severe rarer condition called Alopecia Totalis, all hair on the entire body is lost, including the eyelashes. Treatments include topical medications, a special kind of light treatment, or in some cases drugs.
Fungus Infection (Ringworm) of the scalp
Caused by a fungus infection, ringworm (which has nothing to do with worms) begins with small patches of scaling that can spread and result in broken hair, redness, swelling, and even oozing. This contagious disease is most common in children and oral medication will cure it.
Stress
n cause hair loss is some people. Usually it occurs 3 months after the stressful event has occurred and it may take 3 months after the stress period has ended for the hair growth to resume. In most cases it is temporary if the person is not predisposed to genetic or Androgenic Alopecia, if they are stress may trigger the onset of genetic hair loss or may worsen existing Androgenic hair loss.
MECHANICAL DAMAGE CAUSES HAIR LOSS
Damage to the hair can be self inflicted either by intentional or unintentional means. Some people going through stress continuously pull at their hair until it comes out. Styling hair by bleaching, braiding and straightening can also cause damage and results in hair being lost.
Trichotillomania or Hair Pulling
Some children and less often adults play with their hair by pulling on it or twisting it. This can be part of a behavioral problem or a bad habit that is often done unconsciously. If the behavior is not stopped permanent hair loss can result from the constant stress on the hair. Its best to seek the help of a mental health professional to solve this problem.
Hair Styling Treatments
Many people change the appearance of their hair by using chemical treatments like dyes, tints, bleaches, straighteners, relaxers and permanent waves. If correctly done and done using reputable products, its rare to have any damage. However, hair can become weak and break if any of these chemicals are used too often. Hair can also break if the solution is left on too long, if two procedures are done on the same day, or if bleach is applied to previously bleached hair. Some chemical relaxers do contain powerful chemicals and there have been instances of people get chemical burns from these products resulting in permanent hair loss. Only go to qualified hair stylists and if doing it yourself make sure you only use reputable products and follow the product directions.
Hair Braids/Weaves
Many black women and some black men braid their hair or wear hair weaves. Under normal conditions these cause no problems. However if the weave is attached too tight or the braids are wrapped too tight, they put a constant strain on the hair follicle. If this is done for an extended period of time permanent hair loss can result. This is known as Traction Alopecia and is fairly common among people who braid or weave their hair. Make sure the person applying the braids or weave is qualified to do so and don't wear braids or weaves continuously for extended periods of time.

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Most of us use cosmetics everyday and we “know them when we see them”. However, if I was to ask you whether you thought your toothpaste, suntan lotion, lip balm or anti-dandruff shampoo were cosmetics, I might get a range of opinions.
The Oxford English Dictionary defines cosmetics as:

Having power to adorn, embellish or beautify (esp. the complexion).

That affect appearance only; superficial; spec., intended merely to improve appearances.

(OED, 1991, p. 343)

A key point about the OED definition is that cosmetics are superficial rather than therapeutic agents. Cosmetics are not ‘over the counter’ (OTC) or prescription drugs or drug additives, their role is merely to improve your appearance. This seems straight forward until you look at the full range of products that might fit this definition.

soaps and other body cleansing products;
creams, lotions, face masks, powders and colours for the skin, eyes and lips;
shampoos, lotions, oils, waving agents, fixatives, bleaches, dyes and dye removers for the hair;
lotions, polishes and colours for the nails;
hair removers;
skin bleaching and skin tanning preparations;
toothpastes and other oral care preparations;
antiperspirants, deodorants and other personal hygiene products; and
perfumes and other aromatic substances.

Would you regard all of these as cosmetics?
The list above is a testament to the incredible variety of cosmetic products on the market. Unfortunately, this boon for consumers is a problem for legislators. Concerns about safety and fraudulent advertising claims saw increased regulation of cosmetics in the twentieth century, which required legislators to legal define them. Unfortunately, different regulators in different countries defined cosmetics in different ways.

US definition “articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions. Included in this definition are products such as skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial make-up preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, deodorants, and any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. Soap products consisting primarily of an alkali salt of fatty acid and making no label claim other than cleansing of the human body are not considered cosmetics under the law.”

EU definition “any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.”

Definitions are important as they draw a legal line between cosmetics and drugs, determine labelling requirements and other product standards and proscribe the types of claims manufacturers can make for their products.
See also: Ingredients Lists
A 2005 report produced in Australia as part of changes to its cosmetic regulations includes a good example of some of the consequences of definitional differences between jurisdictions. (Not all countries in the original chart have been included).

Table 1:

Comparison of how products identified for reform are regulated in different countries

	Australia	U.K./E.U.	United States
Antiperspirants	Drug	Cosmetic	Drug and Cosmetic
Antidandruff Shampoos (mass market)	Drug	Cosmetic	Drug and Cosmetic
Moisturisers with Sunscreen	Drug	Cosmetic	Drug and Cosmetic
Antibacterial Skin Washes	Cosmetic (antibacterial cleanser). Drug (kills germs; antiseptic)	Cosmetic	Cosmetic if no antibacterial claims. Drug if antibacterial claims are made
Medicated Skin Cleansers (for acne)	Cosmetic (as a cleanser for acne-prone skin). Drug (treatment or control of acne)	Cosmetic	Cosmetic (as a cleanser for acne-prone skin). Drug (treatment or control of acne)
Mouthwashes	Drug or Cosmetic*	Cosmetic	Drug and Cosmetic*
Toothpastes (fluoride)	Drug	Cosmetic	Drug and Cosmetic

*Depends on the claims made for the product.
The new Australian regulations redefined the following products as cosmetics:

Antiperspirants.
Antidandruff shampoos (unscheduled).
Sunscreens with an SPF that is less than 4.
Moisturisers with secondary sunscreen.
Antibacterial skin washes.
Anti-acne skin cleansers.

This change reduced the regulation of these products in Australia as well as the way they could be packaged and advertised. One consequence of this change is that a number of products that have a known physiological effect on the body are now considered cosmetics. In the old regulations, deodorants, for example, which mask body odour with perfume (i.e., affect appearance), were defined as cosmetics, whereas antiperspirants, which inhibit perspiration (i.e., affect body function), were classified as therapeutic agents. Both are now legally cosmetics in Australia.
The changes in Australia are part of a general trend. Regulation is expensive both for governments and industry. Just as there has been a steady moment of drugs from ‘prescription only’ to ‘over the counter’ (OTC) and from pharmacy to supermarket, we can also expect some additional easing with cosmetics. The global nature of the cosmetic market will put increasing pressure on legislators not only to iron out differences between jurisdictions but also to relax regulations regarding the incorporation of other therapeutic agents into cosmetics.
We should not lose sight of the fact that one of the main reasons for the regulation of cosmetics is to ensure that the products you buy are safe. The twentieth century saw a number of examples of drugs being incorporated into cosmetics (e.g., face creams containing hormones) that were stopped through regulation. As before, we are seeing new materials being incorporated into cosmetics, particularly skin creams. Some of these products are testing current definitions and may result in further refinements in the line between cosmetics and drugs.
22nd August 2013